Climbing Mt Cook (3754m)

A Quick Guide To Climbing New Zealand's Highest Mountain

Jan 25, 2009 Patricia Deavoll

Mt Cook (3754m), or Aoraki/ Mt Cook, has lured climbers from around the world for the best part of a century. But to make a successful ascent, choose a route carefull

Mt Cook lies within Aoraki/ Mt Cook National Park, in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. It sits just off the main divide, flanked on the north by the Tasman Glacier, and on the south by the Hooker Glacier. It has a mile-long summit ridge punctuated by the High, Middle and Low Peaks.

Overseas climbers will arrive in New Zealand via Christchurch International Airport, then make the 250km road journey to Mt Cook Village.Here there is a range of accommodation, but the most popular for climbers is Unwin Hut, 2km from town and owned by the New Zealand Alpine Club.

The National Park Visitor Centre provides information and also manages a series of mountain huts, three of which (Plateau, Gardiner and Empress) are the "take-off" points for summit attempts on Aoraki/Mt Cook. Gardiner and Empress Huts lie in the Hooker Valley, and as there is no air access in the valley climbers must spend 1- 2 days walking to the huts. More popular is Plateau Hut, which can be accessed by helicopter or fixed wing, and is the "take-off" for the easiest and most popular "Linda Glacier" route.

The Routes on Mt Cook

The Linda Glacier (from Plateau Hut)

The easiest and most climbed route, this is also the most dangerous as it is menaced by ice cliffs. The route follows the Linda Glacier to the "Linda shelf", which leads across to the NE Ridge. From here the climber ascends the "summit rocks", then the final ice field to the summit. (12-20 hours: Grade 3).

Zurbriggens Ridge (from Plateau Hut)

One of the great Mt Cook classics, the route climbs the NE ridge, staying just to left of the rock. The route meets the Linda Glacier route at the "summit rocks."(12-20 hours: Grade 3plus).

The East Ridge (from Plateau Hut)

Perhaps New Zealand's finest ice-climb, the East Ridge rises from the southern end of the Grand Plateau to hit the summit ridge 200m south of the Middle Peak.(16- 24 hours: Grade 4).

The Caroline Face (from the Caroline Glacier)

This 2000m climb requires good fitness and a steady nerve as there is significant avalanche hazard. From the Ball Hut Road, walk up the Caroline Glacier until under the face. The route ascends a rock rib from the glacier to a large shelf, then a promiment ice arete running up to the summit ridge. (18- 36 hours; grade 5).

The South Ridge (from Gardiner Hut).

Ascend the Noelne Glacier to Endeavour Col, then on up the ridge proper, climbing three rock steps and a classic snow arete to the Low Peak. Descend the Nor' West Couloir. (12 -20 hours: Grade 4 minutes.

The Nor'West Couloir (from Gardiner Hut)

This is the general term for a number of routes leading from the Lower Empress Shelf onto the West Ridge, and is a common descent route. (Grade 3).

The Hooker Face (from Empress Hut)

This consists of a series of routes running from the Upper Empress Shelf to the High Peak.(12-16 hours:Grade 4/ 4plus).

The North Ridge (from Empress Hut)

Ascend Green Saddle, then follow the ridge up three prominent steps to the summit. This route was used on the first ascent. (12-16 hours:Grade 4).

The New Zealand Grading SystemThe Mount Cook system of grading begins at 1 and currently runs through to grade 7. However climbers need to note grades provide only a rough indication of "normal" conditions. Conditions can change within hours depending on the weather, which in New Zealand is notoriously fickle.

The Mt Cook Guide BookAlex Palman, Aoraki Mount Cook: A Guide For Mountaineers. (NZAC, 2001).

The copyright of the article Climbing Mt Cook (3754m) in Rock Climbing is owned by Patricia Deavoll. Permission to republish Climbing Mt Cook (3754m) in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.